The Devil’s Boulder

Around La Spezia there are places shrouded in mystery, with no shortage of legends and spine-chilling stories, like that of the Devil’s Boulder (Masso del Diavolo).

The devil and the sabbath

The menhir stands on the hill overlooking the Cinque Terre coast, along the path that leads to the farmers’ cottages of Monesteroli.

According to a folk tradition, some travellers once stopped near the great stone and lit a fire to warm themselves and eat. But the wind grew stronger, and among the trees they heard a rising whistle that gave them goosebumps. Suddenly the flames went out, and the men, afraid of the dark, lit the fire again. Great was their terror when they found themselves face to face with a frightening creature that did not like them invading its territory and wanted to drive them away. That being was the devil!

Besides the diabolical apparition, other legends say that the witches’ sabbath was held here, and that women passing by felt an irresistible urge to dance. Other stories tell of strange lights coming from the stone for no apparent reason.

The Devil’s Boulder

The menhir is 2.50 metres tall and stands on top of a pierced boulder. The mystery of its origin deepens when you consider that on the day of the summer solstice it casts a shadow on the dry-stone wall opposite.

According to scholars, it is part of a group of megaliths that can be seen along a lovely themed route on the Alta Via dei Monti Liguri, which includes:

• the Lisciatoio on the Sella del Monte Cuna;
• the menhir of Monte Capri;
• the basin of Monte Sella;
• the petroglyph of Monte della Madonna.

The stones are thought to be part of a Bronze Age astronomical and religious site, a testimony to the pagan worship of the ancient Ligurian people.

The Devil’s Boulder lies along path 504, which from Colle del Telegrafo, near the “Palestra nel verde” outdoor gym, goes down towards Monesteroli along a stretch of paved road. To find it easily, walk until you reach a gate, beyond which the path continues.

Thanks to Stefania Ciocconi for writing this article. Visit her site “Girovagando con Stefania” (in Italian) for lots of useful travel itinerary tips!